Running and trekking in Turkey during the 2020 pandemic. Part 5. Steep paths

I had a good night’s rest. Apparently I slept well, and the body managed to recover. The dog bite did not hurt and it was very good! In case of problems and doubts, I would have to look for a doctor and a hospital in the nearest city, and give me a dose of tetanus injections. I can’t even imagine how much time and money it would take. But this time nothing happened.

I decided not to experiment with the route this time, besides, it lay along the sea, which completely suited me. Adventures at altitude lasted for a while, and my body required more sunlight.

That day I ran a lot, even in spite of the elevation differences. From time to time I avoided stray dogs, they, as before, did not let me go unattended. I’ve become much more careful with them. There was not much to photograph along the way, because the path lay along the roads, through small villages and vegetable farms with endless greenhouses.

Only in the evening the trail began to gain height, so much so that the overnight stay stood out at the highest point. I planned to go further and drop a couple of hundred meters in order to spend the night where it is warmer, but I got stuck on the ascent. I was a little deceived by my map, where such a steep ascent at the end of the day was not indicated. Even then, there was not enough strength for a vigorous pace, and I trudged uphill like a turtle.

There was one village at a height where I decided to stay for the night. I don’t know how it happened, but my phone suddenly went down, and the power bank also ended abruptly. On the last percent of the phone charge, I wrote a GPS track and took a few photos. This village could be my salvation, and I was ready to stay with someone even for money. Without charging the equipment, I would not have been able to fully move on, since I would have been left without route control, maps, photos and videos, which did not suit me at all.

I conducted a survey of local residents on the question of where you can throw things and spend the night. Almost immediately, I got to know a couple of the right guys. They took me to a house under construction. Rather, the house was already residential, but they decided to add an extra floor and a camping place on the roof to it. The guy handed me an extension cord, showed me where to get drinking water, gave me a couple of blankets and pointed out where to throw the tent. This place was an unfinished room, there were not enough windows in it. She protected me more or less from the wind, and the rugs solved the issue with comfort at night. The only thing that I climbed on the roof behind the Internet was because the signal could hardly break through there faster than 2G. This was only a modest inconvenience. The guy retreated as soon as he showed me the place, leaving me only a contact on Instagram.

In the early morning, after breakfast and washing, I began to look for a path further. It turned out to be difficult, because there were no pointers, and the GPS track was leading the wrong way. With this Lycian path, it is constantly like this, now a bunch of signs and a trodden path, then bushes, thorns and looking for hints of a path. This year I was one of the first to walk the Lycian Way. All because of the pandemic, the season should have already opened, and tourists trample noticeable trails. This never happened.

На перевале ждали уже знакомые кусты с колючками и оливковые деревья. Хотелось бы апельсинов, но в тот раз мне с ними не повезло. На перевале выложено множество ограждений из камней. Цель их и возраст остались для меня тайной. Вариантов было много, но это скорее было гаданием. Этот способ познания и открытий нравится мне больше. Факты интереснее узнавать после того, как ты накидал несколько предположения. В этом есть свой азарт.

Через 5-10 км я дошёл до деревни с работающим магазином, впрочем, так там ничего и не купил. Запас еды мне пока не требовался, а ништяками я баловался всего за день до этого. Есть непередаваемый опыт того, как ты уходишь на несколько недель туда где, нет магазинов; строишь планы, что ты купишь в первую очередь, когда найдётся рынок или магазин. Эти несколько дней или недель ты вспоминаешь вкус, он становиться как будто реальным. А потом, когда ты добираешься, до места обычные продукты вызывают вкусовой взрыв. Только ради этого стоит ходить в походы!

Сразу за посёлком есть дорога, которая дублирует путь. Дорога значительно проще и быстрее, но тропа куда более красочная и даже немного опасная. Хорошо, когда есть выбор. Мне как опытному бродяге сложная, но интересная тропа ближе, а новички же или, те, кто не может пройти, могут выбрать дорогу полегче. Даже на карте тропа здесь помечена, как крутая и не рекомендуется для зевак. Я под этим бы подписался!

Конечно, я сделал множество снимков по пути. Места очень красивые, да и с погодой мне повезло. В дождь здесь совсем не сладко: виды могут затянуть облака, а дорога станет в разы опасней. Мне же нужно было всего лишь скакать по камням и держаться тропы.

На этом участке пути мне здорово помогали треккинговые палки. Я брал их, чтобы бодрее забегать в горки, при том брал в первый раз. До этого все мои походы обходились без такого замечательного приспособления, которое, на мой взгляд, больше мешается. Здесь же они пришлись к месту.

Мне попалось несколько апельсиновых и лимонных деревьев. Прекрасный бонус в пути! Если бы рюкзак был побольше, можно было бы брать и лимоны к чаю, а так приходилось только любоваться плодам на дереве.

Одним из запоминающихся мест стал «Пляж Бабочек». Это пляж шириной около км, расположенный в глубине ущелья. К пляжу есть удобная тропа и это излюбленное место самых разных туристов. Для меня же пляж был закрыт, да и путь к нему стал бы крюком в несколько км, так что я насладился отличным видом на него прямо с вершины скалы.

In the afternoon, my road lay through a small pine forest. The wind rose and began to raise clouds of pollen from the trees. The photo shows these green clouds. At this time of the year, this pollen settles everywhere and clogs in all the cracks. Rivers are covered with pollen and carry it out into the sea, where in waves it stays near the shore. Perhaps for allergy sufferers, even a photo will cause discomfort.

Yorick. The skull came across to me along the way. Very charismatic crap, I could not pass by and not take a few shots. Most likely it was once quite a cute lamb.

It was a busy day, during which I went through quite a few interesting places. At the same time, I walked all the way along a rocky path in sneakers. As a result, in the evening, before reaching the town of Oludeniz 3 km, my legs began to refuse to walk. Most likely I overloaded the stabilizing leg muscles. The trail can hardly be called flat, and urban sneakers are not the best trekking shoes, they have no foot support. In general, it so happened that these 3 km I went down to the city for an incredibly long time. I tried very hard to step so as not to aggravate the injury.

In the city, the leg muscles relaxed a little, which made me incredibly happy. Now it was possible to find a cozy place and spend the night there. There is a campsite on the map near the city, there is no electricity, but you will not disturb anyone and no one will disturb you. In the nearest store I bought a whole package of goodies, so much so that my 20 liter backpack turned into a 40 liter one. It was impossible to run with that, but it was not necessary either. It was only necessary to get to the campsite and get a rest.

The night was stormy. The trees around me creaked dangerously, and every now and then I woke up and fell asleep again. I was so exhausted that nothing prevented me from getting enough sleep, even in such conditions.

In the morning, the wind didn’t stop He knocked down several trees, blocking the path to the city. And in the city itself, one tree on my way fell 10 meters in front of me. At that moment, I was just trying to shoot a video about what the weather was going on around me. Everything happened so quickly that I pressed the button on the phone, instead of a single press and the video was not recorded. Well, at least he stayed alive and that’s good!

An hour before, the trail took me to an ancient city in ruins. At that moment, to put it mildly, I was very fucking! I didn’t plan anything of the kind and would have passed this place if it had turned out a little differently, for example, if I had chosen another place to spend the night. I didn’t expect to get into the ruins of an ancient city just by walking out of the forest. Indescribable feelings! Something similar to the sensations of a pioneer. This is impossible when you work out the route in detail. This is really valuable to me. It is better to skip the sights and accidentally go out to something interesting than visit everything and know exactly what you will see along the way.

My Lycian Trail was drawing to a close. To be honest, even in the evening, limping, when I reached the city of Oludeniz, I thought that the Lycian path was over for me. The ruins of the city came as a pleasant surprise for me, in contrast to the fallen tree, which could become the finish point not only of the Lycian trail, but also of my journey as a whole.

The end of the trail was the city of Fethiye. It is a huge city on the seashore. Surely, at other times, there are millions of tourists sitting on the beach, in bars or shopping. For me, the city was as deserted as all the previous ones on the trail. There were posters along the roads urging people to stay at home, and people really followed these rules. An empty, beautiful, well-equipped tourist metropolis, in which I am a little hung up.

The trail ended unexpectedly quickly for me. By that time, I had not had time to really think about what to do next. We flew 500 km as if in 1 day. Before me was the choice of what to do, how and where to go now, or even stay here, or return. It was a really tough choice. On the one hand, I came to Turkey for training and I had to continue it, on the other hand, I could stay in any town and run there. But what if a curfew is imposed, what then? If you move on, where and how, on foot or by running? On North? It is still cold there and the city of Fethiye is surrounded by mountains, and the road to the East is no better.

I spent half a day in my phone over the map, wondering what is better and what I have the strength and capabilities for. All this time, I just wandered around the city and never came to anything. But the rain came, and the forecast predicted rainy weather for several days in advance. Not finding an answer, I decided to throw a tent in the nearest camping outside the city, and make a decision overnight.

The choice was complicated by the presence of a ghostly opportunity to get home from Turkey. I needed a return ticket and wait for the plane and news. This option was as flawed and unpredictable as the rest. Return home, to normal food, more or less correct, and to training in Kirov, where the weather became comfortable for running. All this was cooking in my head. In the end, I decided to buy a ticket home and brighten the waiting time with a trip to Turkey. I decided, probably, on the most risky and difficult option – to get to Pamukkale. Even then there was information that the Denizli region, like another 30 pieces, including Antalya, was in a special isolation mode and the chance to get there was far from 100%. I counted 5 days of travel to Pamukkale and the same amount then to Antalya, and if an airplane appears, try to stop the car, at this turbulent time of the year. But that’s another story.