2015 May. Russia. Hike in the mountains of Adygea

In fact, I was going to Abkhazia for more than two months, and shortly before leaving, it turned out that we were going on a campaign not in Abkhazia, but in Adygea. It’s not bad, but planning for this year is absolutely not working for me.

Packing my things, I decided not to take my raincoat with me, sparing space in my backpack. The rest of the set of things is more or less standard: a backpack 95, a two-person tent, warm and summer clothes (hiking in the mountains in summer is always like “Panties and felt boots”), equipment: a camera down, telephones, a flashlight and chargers, and so on various little things, like first aid kits and repair kits. I almost did not take food, I usually do not want to eat on the way, and I have no time, but on the spot it is already possible to shop.

Traditionally, I left the house early in the morning, and it is calmer and there are fewer extra cars. On the bus and out of town. There is no point in stopping in the city if you don’t have a tank of extra time. I wanted to sleep badly, especially on the bus, I probably need to go to bed earlier, but for some reason it never works before the trip. Either something to do, then just the brain refuses to turn off and drive useless thoughts through itself.

The weather in Kirov in May is cool, the snow still lies in the forests. Lead clouds do not give an extra reason for positive, but then I still did not know that they were preparing to burst into a dense snowfall, which in a few minutes returned the winter to these places. It only played into my hands. The familiar phrase “If it hadn’t been for … I wouldn’t have taken it” from the driver has not been heard for the first time. Although, even if this driver does not take you, another one will take with him, perhaps a little later, but he will. The reason for the refusal in our country from truckers is most often fears that, like in the 90s, his multimillion-dollar cargo with a criminal poptuchik will disappear, and he himself will either be on the list of missing persons, or will work as a slave until the end of his life, fulfilling the lost cargo. And you can understand them.

The world seems different from a height of 2 meters. I love big trucks. Moreover, they go far! And this time it was no exception, on this truck, as it turned out, I was able to get to Moscow itself, which is almost 1000 km of the way in one car. What has to do with it, he could have let him down further, because he also went south along the M4, but he needed to unload at some airport near Domodedovo.

During the day of the journey, you will have time to get to know a person well, you often talk about such topics that you don’t talk to friends. There is something in this. Time flies by unnoticed, and the atmosphere in the car is very homey, and you can warm up the tea, read a book, and listen to music.

I got out not far from the turn to the M4 motorway, but it was two o’clock in the morning. For too long we have been stuck in a traffic jam near Moscow. Found a good place for a tent and fell asleep for several hours until morning.

The next day was somewhat harder. It’s hard to start from the M4, in the morning there are few people who want to bring up fellow travelers. Itself in the morning I hardly communicate when at home, and then it also rained. Not strong, but things got a little dirty. A service guy who was driving from Moscow back to the unit gave me a lift. And there, at the traffic police post, I caught a car to Voronezh

The rain ended on the way and that’s good. They dropped me off at the bypass and I had to immediately catch the car there, but for some reason I thought that the place was better further and went a little forward along the bypass. This was a big mistake. Further nothing was better, and the further you went, the worse the place for hitchhiking. I don’t remember how long I walked, but I definitely broke the record for catching a ride. Now it was 5 hours, and already almost desperate to get to Krasnodar that day, I still stopped the car. In it was a pretty girl who was heading straight to Krasnodar for more than 800 km, and the time was 5 pm. Here is such luck.

On the way, we stopped a couple of times for coffee. The girl was driving home to her husband, but on the way she had to call in Rostov, pick up her things. There was a big ginger cat in the car with her. He was very nervous, the road hardly brought him pleasure. At times he hid under the seats, and sometimes he crawled under the pedals, exposing the entire journey to great danger. But nothing terrible happened, apart from the fact that he almost marked my backpack, choosing for this the back seat of the car. And the last hundred kilometers we drove, ventilating the car.I didn’t go to Krasnodar itself – it’s too hard to get out of it. Somewhere 30 km from the city, I asked to stop the car and walked away from the road. There was an apple orchard, which was a very comfortable and beautiful place to pitch a tent and get a good sleep.

In the morning, the blooming apple orchard was very impressive! And at night the guest was a quiet hedgehog looking for something to eat near my tent. I did not rush to collect, and only at 10 o’clock I moved to the track. It was necessary to go around Krasnodar and find a road to Maykop.

I was picked up on a small gazelle by elderly but very cheerful grandfather and grandmother. On the way, we stopped at the gardens and unloaded a concrete mixer on the site, they were engaged in the sale and delivery. They took me to the city and suggested the way. I took a minibus to a large shopping center, where two bypass roads intersect. I needed the one that led to Krapotkin. The place was comfortable for a stop and I quickly left. With a couple of three transfers I got to Maikop. Once, a man of southern appearance wanted to take money from me for a trip, after we had passed, but he realized that he was wrong and left in peace on his own business. In places where there are many tourists, it is not uncommon for people to taxis on the road and it is not superfluous to ask if the road will be free.

Although my friends and I agreed to meet in Maykop, I still drove 100 km further at the invitation of new satellites on the 5th Mazda. On it we managed to ride at a speed of 200 km / h, then it has a blockage and a little ride across the field, which is also quite fun. In the evening I was fed, and I spent the night 6 km from the village of Mostovskaya, where they transferred the meeting with my friends. From this village we have a transfer to the mountains.

In the morning we played a little with firearms and had a snack. It was summer all around here and it was very pleasant to walk to the village on foot. I didn’t even catch the car. The village itself is also very beautiful and pleasant. I ran into a couple of shops and had a bite, waiting for the arrival of my friends with whom we have gone on hikes more than once.

They picked me up at the bus station, and without stopping we drove to the place. It’s great to see good old friends. Mountain roads are not boring, and when there is an opportunity to ride on the roof of a “loaf” it is doubly more fun! We got there in two hours, and the time was already towards evening. After a short explanation of the route, we walked a little and set up camp on one of the ridges. The place is extremely picturesque! It was not cold at night and my fears about the sleeping bag were not confirmed. I do not know why I took the summer one to 0 degrees.

The morning was clear, the sun was warm, beauty! After a little exercise and a snack of porridge, we hit the road.

The mileage seems to be not large for today, but in terms of landscapes, it’s not even bad. We managed to see both the sun and rain clouds passing somewhere in the distance. I liked the day very much. We set up camp on the “windy” pass. We got to know the source of its name only the next evening, but how it was.

From “Vetreny” I had two radials. I don’t even remember what the peaks were called, but they were on either side of it. Snow scrap! This year, in April, he dropped out already 4 times and the 5th with us, although according to the stories he should not be here at all. People in slippers and sneakers usually walk here at this time, but we were “lucky”. Nobody was going to get upset about this, but the route had to be changed a little – some places are simply impassable.

Днём я успел сбегать до небольших пещер в долине. Там ещё росло огромное старое зловещее дерево. Впечатляет. Определённо, какое то место силы, его завернуло по спирали. До лагеря от туда добирался долго и свалился с ног, когда дошёл, сил не было даже на обед. Отходил часа три. Если бы не шоколад, валялся бы ещё дольше.

By evening, the pass made itself felt. A powerful wind rose, and at night it even intensified, so much so that we did not sleep all night. They were holding back our tents, which he simply laid to the ground, trying to fold arcs in unintended places. Verse only in the morning, at 5 o’clock and even then not much. Personal belongings not cleaned in the evening had to be collected tens of meters from the tents, well, and unbend the pegs bent to hell.

We did not stop at this place any longer and went to the “Devil’s Gate” pass, which is so often found in my photographs. Indeed, it looks like a portal to another world. However, in reality it was not easy to go there. There was so much snow that we fell through at the very least. There was no trail, we were the first to walk there due to snowfalls. There was a danger of avalanches, the slope was large, the snow was heavy, so we walked doubly carefully. They were completely wet – the snow was wet, and at times it was covered with drizzling rain.

За перевалом нам не удалось спастись от этой некомфортной погоды, она только ухудшилась. Пришлось отложить поиски места под ночёвку, чтобы укрыться от усиливающегося ледяного дождя под сооружённым на скорую руку тентом, очень пригодившимся в этом походе. Воду, скапливающуюся в нём мы использовали на чай, кипятя её в Jetboilах. Это помогало хоть как то согреться! Там же переоделись в сухие и тёплые вещи, у кого что было.

После того как дождь прекратился, не стали испытывать судьбу — разбили лагерь и стали готовить ужин. Надеялись, что такая погода больше не повторится, да и вариантов у нас было не много.

Подъём был с первыми лучами солнца. Именно солнца и это очень радовало. Вещи высохнуть не успели, но кое-что, всё-таки удалось подсушить у костра. Впереди предстояло вновь окунуться в местные снега по пояс, но это было уже не так страшно. Во-первых, уже не впервой, во-вторых вещи уже сырые и в-третьих скоро и выход с этих гор.

Так уже после первого получаса я снова тропил по снегу по указанному азимуту. Временами останавливался, чтобы выжать окончательно промокшие вещи. Мембрана моих ботинок вконец испортилась и пропускала влагу почти сразу после соприкосновения с этим сырым снегом. Приятного мало, но это я смог преодолеть. В очередной раз пришлось изменить маршрут, и исключить прохождение лавиноопасного хребта, избрав дорогу через лес. По склону мы спустились к небольшому ручью и уже вдоль него надеялись выйти к дороге, обнаруженной на GPS. И ручей нас вывел куда надо, дорогу мы нашли, правда о5 уже к вечеру. У дороги стоял небольшой приют — домик для туристов. Внутри его было грязновато, так что мы предпочли наши палатки и хороший согревающий костёр с вкусным ужином. К тому же у Вити был день Рождения, так что вечер прошёл замечательно.

A slight frost in the morning froze all the washed clothes that were hung up to dry. My boots turned into a big block of ice. It is impossible to dry them out under such conditions. I had to dress them as they are. This had a very negative effect on my legs by the evening of that day.

Our path now lay along the road, or rather along the trail for SUVs who are able to get here, through all the passes. On the way, we met a herd of some large artiodactyls, and also several times we met the traces of not small such bears. Meeting with them was not the most desirable, they hardly had time to fill their bellies after winter.

On the way, we came across several groups of tourists, dressed in our opinion not at all for the weather. But they were definitely confident in their strength to go along the same route as us and even faster! We had no choice but to wish them luck.

By the end of the day, my legs were simply burning, every step was like on hot coals, I even took off my shoes and went in slippers, but it did not help much. We had to endure an hour’s journey, and then there was a camp. Because of the fog, nothing was visible and we did not see part of the landscapes, but those that we were able to see were quite enough for us to be completely happy.

The next day, after wandering a little along unsigned roads in the mountains, we got out into civilization, where, after laying siege to a small shop, we had a good rest and got back to the Mostovskaya settlement. Our paths diverged, I had to hitchhike to St. Petersburg, and the guys in Sochi and home.

Our roads are not calm and during the stop I saw such a picture.